My African Sunday:
On Sunday morning/Saturday night we went to the airport at about 1am to pick up Brittany and Morgan from their 10 day adventure in South Africa. We made signs and cupcakes. They had no idea we were coming and were skeptical if the taxi driver even remembered.
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| SO excited! |
I had the opportunity to go to church with some of the ladies at the peanutbutter factory. I woke up eartly, got on the Daladala, and headed out to the area they live in. Victoria and I walked to church in the rain huddled under an umbrella.
I was most definitely the only mzungu to be at church and therefore had many looks. As church began, I was invited to stand up and greet the congregation. Omega had prepared me for this before I left so I said “Bwana Yesu asifiwe! Ninampenda Jesu!” which means blessings from the Lord, I love Jesus. I got some chuckles and big “AMEN!”’s. The entire service was in swahili with lots of thanks to the Lord, some talk about Israel, and some reading from John. Once again, like the church at Lorevani, we gave offering 3 times. I loved watching the chior stand up and dance all together with passion for the Lord.
After the 2nd go around of the offering a sweet little girl ran up to me and wrapped her arms around my waist. She came and sat down with me and cuddled in my lap and would not leave my side till her sister came and took her because they were leaving.
After the service there was an auction which I suppose was to raise money for the church. The things for sale included really tall grass for cows (about 10 feet tall), lettuce, cucumbers (about 60 of them), and a live chicken. Everything was being sold super cheap. I was watching and observing and just taking it all in when all of a sudden I hear “mia saba kwa mzungu!” from one of the elders of the church. Then a woman brought me 8 cucumbers as a gift from this kind man.
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| pretty sweet Maasai tie made out of beads. It was AWESOME! |
After a quick nap and some food, I was off for my next adventure with the Roomie and Hezron, one of our music professors. Hezron is a Maasai who lives a modernized life in the Arusha area. Together, we went out to the Engutukoiti Kijiji area near the camel safaris so I could get interviews from traditional Maasai people for my paper on the preservation of the Maasai through music. We met up with one of Hezron’s Maasai friends who took us to his boma to meet his mother, wife, and sister.
We sat in their hut for about an hour and a half, covered with flies, asking questions and having Hezron translate. I fell in love with mama, as I do with most elderly people. I asked her how old she was and she said 100 (as if the world depended on it). Well, let me tell you, she is not 100, however they do not keep track of dates or special occasions so many Maasai have no idea how old they are. I told her that I loved her and then she said I love you too so I am going to give you a gift! This was the only sentence out of the hour and a half convo that was spoken in Swahili instead of Maa. She gave me a beautiful orange, white, and blue beaded bracelet.
Because music is part of a feeling for the Maasai, it can’t be sung on cue. Therefore, when we would ask questions the ladies would tell us they did not feel the music right now but then as we continued, the more they talked about something, they would begin to dance slightly then start singing. It was wonderful to see the pride they take in their culture and traditions.
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| Mama Helena is on the left and her daughter Ngoilelo on the right. They can't be more than 12-15 years apart although they are mother and daughter |
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| their boma and the hut of Hezron's friend, Paulo-- the small, tiny square on the hut is the only window and its not more than 8 inches tall and that is BIG window for a Maasai home |
We then carried on to the next boma where we met a mama who has acuired her own boma because her husband has 3 other wives, so each has their own boma for their family. Polygamy is very common in Maasai life because women are the milkers of cows, greeters of guests, and responsibility in the home while children are the caretakers of the animals when out grazing. Because men have many animals, they need many wives to help care for the animals and produce many children who will similarly do the same. She has 3 daughters and her firstborn son who is still alive out of the 7 children she has had. Her mother also lives in the boma with them.
Mama was a beautiful woman who didn’t talk much but you could tell she wanted to be your friend. Her oldest son had just gotten married and the marriage ceremony that had lasted for 7 days ended on Saturday. He is most likely barely 20 alhtough they say he is 23. His new wife who is extremely pregnant so that he knows she can produce children is not any older than 15 or 16. We asked if this would be his only wife and before he responded, mama spoke out with passion that it most definitely would be and he agreed. They talked to us about the music at the ceremony and how most songs last for hours on end. I asked if they got tired of dancing or singing and she replied in shock, “NO! You cannot become tired when you are excited!”
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| her firstborn son who is newly married and because he is the only male at the boma he acts as though he is the father figure/ husband to mama when it comes to rules and regulations and permission |
We then went outside her hut, which was shaped differently than the first which was separated into many rooms. This hut had a partial divider made from slats of wood to keep the sun from overflowing into the hut and a circular area with a hole dug for the fire for cooking. Behind the fire was her bed which was partitioned off by wooden slats on each side. I sat on her cowhide mattress while we talked. Outside we met the 3 daughters and the new wife. They were all milking the goats. I wanted to try so I walked over to the new wife and communicated through motions that I wanted to try. I think that the goats are afraid of mzungus too. She chased after the goat who had run away from me and then held it so I could milk it. I had no idea what I was doing, but I was successful and I did not spill any... except that little bit that squirted my skirt.
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| keep in mind, she is 9 months preggo |
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| we were there long enough to watch the sun go completely down, it was one of the best days I have had here |
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| this is grandma |
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| somehow they acquired this teddy bear which they put above the goat pen to scare away the hyenas. He has goggles and a hat. |
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| the new wifey and the youngest daughter |
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| This is grandma |
hen mama asked if we wanted chai, you don’t ever say no. As the Maasai culture of hospitality is, you always have chai ready. So she brought us chai made from.... GOAT MILK! Yes, from those goats they were milking! It was delicious too.
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| Mama and I drinking some chai |
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| Me, Hezron, and the Roomie |
We took pictures with the family, said congratulations to the new couple and to their baby who will be born any day now.
While we were inside talking and I was sitting on her bed, they asked if I wanted to live like Maasai and if I could (handle to) stay out there. I told them I would love to but I still have school. And really, I would love to. She kept telling me I could sleep on her bed. Then after we went outside she asked me if I wanted to stay the night so that I could sing the cattle to sleep. I thought this was funny, but oh how I would love to spend at least a night, or a few out in a boma in the middle of no where.
(I will post my paper that I wrote if any one is interested in the Maasai culture and music--but keep in mind, I am no expert.)
Oh and I almost forgot, they told me that when the wife is going to go into labor she has to walk for about an hour to the nearest health care facility, which I can tell you is another mud hut and a doctor who has less training in the medical field than an American nurse would who will then deliver the baby. I cannot imagine having contractions and making the trek at whatever time of day that is an hour away in the hot sun or the middle of the pitch black night and through the rough terrain.
